Following Khadija: A Journey Through the Moroccan Desert

Ever since I became friends with Khadija years ago, I knew that one day I would visit Morocco, her homeland, the place she spoke about with such warmth and pride. Born and raised there, she later moved to France but returned every year to reconnect with her roots, family, and friends. In our many conversations, she painted vivid pictures of Moroccan landscapes and culture, always ending with:

“One day, I’ll take you on a trek in the Sahara Desert.”

Khadija wasn’t just reminiscing. In her former life, she was one of Morocco’s first women to earn a state diploma as a certified tour guide, a trailblazer in a male-dominated industry. 

She shared captivating stories of the tours she led, the challenges she overcame, and the camaraderie she built with her colleagues. Though she stepped away from guiding professionally, she continued to lead informal excursions for friends and family during her annual visits maintaining a deep connection to the land.

Her stories, photos, and passion stirred something in me. I longed for a journey that wasn’t just about sightseeing but about immersion, seeing Morocco through her eyes. So, in February 2023, I finally followed her back to her homeland for a very special kind of adventure.

Day 1: Marrakech – The Beginning

Khadija planned a weeklong walking trek through the southern Draa Valley, on the edge of the Sahara Desert. The plan was to walk for a few hours daily, adapting to the slow pace of nomadic life and the shifting desert scenery.

I invited a few friends who love the outdoors, and word spread, soon we had a small group of adventurers, we named our group ‘La Caravane Passe’.

Our adventure began in vibrant Marrakech. The city's colours, sounds, and aromas enveloped us immediately. We wandered through the medina’s narrow cobblestone streets, marvelled at spice stalls and artisanal wares, and soaked in the hypnotic energy of Jemaa el-Fnaa square. That night, we stayed at the serene Riad Dar Sara, a tranquil retreat that marked the beginning of our unforgettable journey.

Day 2: Ksar Aït Ben Haddou – Ouarzazate

The next morning, we set off by minibus toward the desert, with planned stops at the Kasbah of Telouet and Ksar Aït Ben Haddou, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

As luck would have it, we witnessed a rare sight, snow blanketing the Atlas Mountains. The Tizi n’Tichka Pass, the main road linking Marrakech to the desert, was temporarily closed. We made an unplanned stop in Ait Faska, using the downtime for an impromptu picnic and shared stories beneath the snow-capped peaks.

Despite the detour, the journey was stunning. The road wound through Berber villages and dramatic mountain passes. That night, we stayed at La Palmeraie Ecolodge in Ouarzazate and took a short walk, through a nearby palm grove, where we learned about ingenious, centuries-old irrigation systems still in use today.

Day 3: Ouarzazate – Bouiguaire Dunes 

The real desert journey began as we continued south to Tansifte, where we bought our cheches; long Berber scarves essential for shielding against sun, sand, and wind.

We followed the breathtaking Draa Valley, a green ribbon winding through arid terrain, passing kasbahs and oases, until we reached Zaouïa Sidi Saleh. There, our camel caravan awaited, an experienced team of camel drivers and cooks who would accompany us.

By sunset, we reached the dunes of Tidri. As our team set up camp, the desert’s silence embraced us. The golden light, aromatic dinner, and soft sand beneath our feet marked the true beginning of our Sahara experience.

Day 4: Bouiguiare Dunes – Zaouia Sidi Saleh – Tidri Dunes

Tridi Dunes Bivouac

Our first desert morning greeted us with stiff joints and rising spirits. From this point on, we were truly off-grid, no showers, no toilets, just open skies and dusty boots.

Passing through Tagounite, we visited a local school to deliver books and crayons brought from Marrakech. The children’s joy made the moment unforgettable.

We were then welcomed for tea by a local family, an act of hospitality that grounded us. Later, we arrived at Erg Essahel, a vast sea of golden dunes glowing under the afternoon sun. We felt like tiny dots in a landscape that stretched to infinity.

Day 5: Erg Essahel – Ras El Rrich – Lahniti Dunes

The trek continued across the reg, a stony desert plateau dotted with tamarisk and acacia trees, both resilient species that thrive in arid climates.

We wandered along a rocky ridge rich in fossils, pausing to marvel at ancient stones and absorb the vastness. Lunch at the well of Ras El Rrich gave some a chance to take a refreshing “Berber shower” drawing water from the well to rinse off under the sun.A sudden mini sandstorm swept in, sending us scrambling beneath our cheches.

That night, we camped among the Lahniti dunes. After dinner, we climbed a nearby dune, lay on our backs in the cool sand, and gazed at the infinite sky thick with stars.

Day 6: Lahniti – Ouled Driss

Our final trekking day took us through alternating ergs and regs, past ancient villages built from pisé, rammed-earth walls that have endured for centuries.

We arrived at Ouled Driss, near M’Hamid El Ghizlane, once a vital hub for trans-Saharan caravans. That night, we stayed in a Saharan camp and dined in traditional khaimas (nomadic tents).

After dinner, we were treated to an unforgettable Gnawa music performance, a rhythmic fusion of Sub-Saharan, Arab, and Amazigh cultures. Dressed in white robes and turbans, the musicians filled the night with hypnotic drumming, chanting, and krakebs. The beat built into a trance, and we found ourselves invited to join the dance. It was surreal. The firelight, the stars, the sand, all pulsing with rhythm. A moment that stirred something deep within.

Gnawa music show

Day 7: M’Hamid El Ghizlane – A Changing Landscape

Back in M’Hamid El Ghizlane, the silence of the desert carried heavy truths. Climate change is transforming this land: rainfall is disappearing, agriculture is declining, and young people are moving to cities. The once-thriving date palmsnow battle Fusarium wilt, a fungal disease worsened by drought.

We stayed at the Caravane Rose du Sable, a simple, warm B&B where we finally enjoyed a long-awaited shower. At the local ethnographic museum, we explored tools, textiles, and traditions that spoke to the enduring resilience of desert life.

Later, a local family welcomed us for tea. Their stories of disappearing crops and distant children echoed the changes we’d seen.

That night, over our final dinner, emotions ran high. Gratitude, connection, and the quiet ache of goodbye filled the room. The desert had carved itself into our memories.

Final Day: Return to Marrakech

The next morning, we began our long journey back to Marrakech, hearts full and feet still carrying the memory of the sand.

Before leaving, we said heartfelt goodbyes to the incredible team who made the trek possible, our kind and skilful camel drivers, the cooks who nourished us, and the guides who led us with care. Their warmth, laughter, and deep knowledge of the desert left an indelible mark on our experience.

We stopped at local cooperatives for handmade goods and final glimpses of the desert in the rearview mirror. 

That last night in the Marrakech medina felt like a gentle closing chapter, bittersweet, filled with gratitude, stories, and the quiet ache of farewell.

🧭 Practical Tips for Desert Trekkers

• Best time to go: November to March (avoid the summer heat)

• What to pack: Layers, scarf (cheche), sunscreen, wet wipes, headlamp, and a refillable water bottle

• How to prepare: Some fitness helps—trekking is 3–6 hours/day

• Travel responsibly: Bring supplies for local schools and support cooperatives